Day 19: Visit the archaeological site of Palenque
Today it's time to visit the archaeological site of Palenque, thus beginning one of the most interesting and intense days on this trip to Mexico in 45 days and that we know, will be another of the many cherries of this incredible trip.
After the somewhat strange day of yesterday in which I had to go to Palenque from San Cristóbal de las Casas on a journey that took us practically all day, today we woke up at 5 in the morning to be able to work a couple of hours and Go down to the breakfast room of the Hotel Chablis Palenque, our accommodation in Palenque these days, when it is 7 in the morning, which is the time that starts breakfast.
After breakfast and charging us with energy to visit the archaeological site of Palenque, when there are a few minutes to 7:30, we go to the roundabout, next to the “mayan head”To take a bus that takes us by pesos to the ruins of Palenque.
How to go to the archaeological site of Palenque
There are several ways to go to the archaeological site of Palenque, one of the essential places to visit in Mexico.
- Collective: You can take it at the Mayan roundabout, just in front of the Palenque bus station. The price is 28 pesos per person.
- Taxi: You can take it at the bus station stop. The price is 100 pesos per way.
- Tour: In any agency or in your own accommodation you can hire a tour that includes round trip transportation and tickets for 350 pesos. For us the problem with this option is the little time you have to visit the archaeological site of Palenque, which is usually not more than 2-3 hours.
Mayan Roundabout in Palenque
Our initial idea is to opt for the bus to go to the archaeological site of Palenque, which, as we mentioned earlier, leave directly from the green post that is right in front of the roundabout of the mayan head, next to the ADO station.
But as we say this was the idea, since when we get there they tell us that the first group has just passed and that the next one will happen in about 15-20 minutes. In addition there is a fairly important queue of people who are going to sell their crafts to Palenque, so we decided to make a change of plans and take a taxi, since the price difference compensates us for a matter of time and tranquility.
We arrive at the door of the archaeological site of Palenque when it is 7:50 in the morning, where the taxi stops at the box office and where we pay 32 pesos per person, which is the entrance to be paid to the National Park and which is external at the entrance of the archaeological site of Palenque, which we will pay once we are at the ticket office.
3 and a half kilometers ahead is the door of the archaeological site, known as the upper entrance and which is what we recommend to use for the visit, since in this way you can start visiting the archaeological site of Palenque from the top, go going down through the different structures and at the end you reach the site Museum area, where the lower entrance is and from where you can take a taxi or bus to return to Palenque.
Once here we go directly to the ticket office to pay 70 pesos per person, which is the amount of admission to the archaeological site of Palenque. In this small square, you have several restaurants, shops and all guide services, among which you will find many options to choose from for about 500 pesos for two people. We have chosen to make the visit for free, since we have enough information and we prefer to go a little more at our pace, to be able to go quieter and take photographs, although we believe that this option is very valid, especially if you want to know the history and details of a place as incredible as this.
Entrance to the archaeological site of Palenque
Tips for visiting the archaeological site of Palenque
- As we mentioned before, after our experience we advise you to start that to visit the archaeological site of Palenque you choose to enter through the upper entrance, to go down through the different groups of structures, to reach the end of the area of the Ponds known as the Queen's Bath and from there and after a stretch of trails, reach the Site Museum.
- Even if you come early in the morning, something that is highly recommended, keep in mind that they open at 8 in the morning, you will probably find more people. The first group of structures you'll find is the Temple of the Inscriptions. If you want to take some photos without people or visit it with peace of mind, you just have to wait a few minutes, since people do not usually entertain themselves and after this first group of tourists that we enter early, there is usually a space of time in which There is practically no one until the organized groups arrive.
If you do this, you can probably do the rest of the visit to the archaeological site of Palenque alone. We have been almost 75% of the route completely alone, coinciding only with many people in the Group of Crosses, which is one of the most iconic places in the place.
- It is usually very hot and in the enclosure you will not find many shadows. It is best to wear a hat and protector.
- Keep in mind that inside there is no place where they sell water or snacks, so it is important to carry them in your backpack.
- While you are visiting, you will see that in most of the main trails there are people selling handicrafts. The truth is that we believe that this should be regularized, of course maintaining this option, but that it was in an enclosure enabled for it, outside the archaeological site, since we understand that Palenque should be treated as an open-air museum and that they have vendors among the structures, we believe that it does not help the overall vision of such an amazing place
Do you buy or not buy?
- Regardless of this, in case you choose to buy something, we advise you to think before haggle to death With the sellers. If you arrive early in the morning you can see how they load with the boxes on the back, with the material to sell, through the trails. We believe that they deserve every weight for which they sell their crafts. For us they are probably only a few pesos, but for them you can be making things much easier.
- If you want to hire a guide, we advise you to do so at the entrance to the archaeological site. Prices vary from one to another, but the normal would be 500 pesos per group.
What we would ask you to do is not to ask a child to guide you in the archaeological site. We have seen many people who accept the guided tour for children, who charge about 100 pesos for two people. Yes, it is cheaper, but think that these children would have to be in school, and paying them to make guides the only thing we encourage is that they do not go to school.
- You will find the best panoramic views of Palenque from the Temple of the Foliated Cross, the Palace and the Temple of the Cross. From all of them there are stunning views of the archaeological site.
- Although initially the climb to these temples may seem very complicated, if you take it easy, it is totally feasible with a minimum of effort.
- We recommend you, at the end of the visit, enter the Site Museum. You can travel it in about 45 minutes and we believe it is the perfect complement to the archaeological site of Palenque, in addition to being able to see some really interesting pieces.
- Right in front of the museum, under a small booth, collect buses to return to Palenque for 20 pesos per person, which will leave you at the ADO station, next to the hotel zone of La Cañada.
- We have read that the visit to archaeological site of Palenque It can be done in two hours. In our experience, in two hours we would not have seen 50% of the structures, so we recommend that if you want to see Palenque with a minimum of dedication, including the museum, book about 4-5 hours. We assure you that you will not regret it.
- Something to keep in mind is that if you don't have as many days as we do, one option is to come by night bus from San Cristóbal de las Casas, visit Palenque in the morning (4-5 hours) and take a bus to Campeche in the afternoon, to get there at night. Although it is a whip, doing so gives you the opportunity to see more places and make the trips in the evening, taking advantage of the time.
- And last but not least, when you find your corner In Palenque, sit in the shade and just enjoy the moment. It's amazing how you can feel the nature and energy of this amazing place.
Archaeological site of Palenque
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What to visit in the archaeological site of Palenque. Group of the Temple of the Inscriptions, the Palace and the Group of the Crosses
Surrounded by jungle, in the heart of the National Park, the impressive archaeological site of Palenque, an incredible Mayan city of which today only a small part of the more than 20 square kilometers that make it up can be visited.
Temple of the Inscriptions Group
As we mentioned earlier, our recommendation is to visit the archaeological site of Palenque from its upper access, from where the first group of structures you will find is one of the most important and incredible of the entire site.
Temple of the Skull
As if it were a line on the horizon of time, the first of the structures found in Palenque is the Temple of the Skull, a name that it receives as the place that houses the relief of a deer skull.
Temple of the Skull
Temple XII Tomb of the Red Queen
The next important temple that we find in the line of temples, is Temple XII where the Tomb of the Red Queen was found, named after the color that dyed the body of the queen and that is believed, after many studies, that It could be Pakal's wife.
Temple XII Tomb of the Red Queen
Temple of the Inscriptions
The most important structure of this group is the Temple of the Inscriptions, in addition to being the tallest in Palenque and one of the symbols, not only of this archaeological site, but of the entire Mayan world.
Temple of the Inscriptions
With a 25-meter staircase, it is this structure that highlights both the cresting and the various rooms that are on the sides and the inscription, which gives its name to the structure and explains the history of Palenque in detail.
Although perhaps the greatest treasure is a few meters below where after descending some internal stairs you reach the room where Pakal's tomb was found, which today cannot be accessed and that preserves the sarcophagus in which it was buried, of which you can see a full-size replica in the Site Museum and that at the time also protected Pakal's funeral mask, today in the National Museum of Anthropology of Mexico City.
The palace
In addition to being one of the main structures of Palenque, The Palace is also very interesting for the views that can be obtained from the part that faces the Temple Group of the Inscriptions.
We advise you, before starting to visit it, spend a few minutes to sit in a corner where the sun does not much, to enjoy one of the most incredible views of the archaeological site of Palenque, where you will have at your feet the Temple of the Inscriptions.
Views of the Temple of the Inscriptions from The Palace
Notable is also the Palace Tower, currently restored and believed to have been used by priests to see how the sun was hiding behind the Temple of the Inscriptions.
Palace Tower
In the back of the Palace you can see the Patio de los Cautivos, with very interesting reliefs and a little beyond, at the end of the structure, another patio from which you have again, unique views of the surrounding temples the structure.
Courtyard of the Captives
The palace
Group of the Crosses
This group of three main structures was built by Pakal's son, after his death, with the firm intention of serving as the spiritual center of the three gods of Palenque.
Sun Temple
In the western part of the square, the Temple of the Sun is perhaps the most remarkable of the three for preserving a practically intact crest.
Temple of the Sun. Group of the Crosses
Temple of the Cross
This is the largest structure of the Group of Crosses, in which after climbing the stairs, in addition to incredible views of the surroundings, you can see stunning scenes engraved in Kan B'alam stone.
Temple of the Cross
Temple of the Foliated Cross
For us the least striking of the three, but at the same time, the most attractive at the visual level, since it is still unearthed and this gives it an incredible appearance. Once the steep stairs are drawn, inside you can see several inscriptions, in which Pakal is seen with a quetzal on his head.
Temple of the Foliated Cross
We advise you to climb all three, especially the first two, from which you have some of the best views of the archaeological site of Palenque. Although the stairs are quite steep, calmly it is totally feasible to climb, even without being physically fit or having vertigo, since the steps are not too narrow.
Incredible views of Palenque from the Group of Crosses
What to visit in the archaeological site of Palenque. South Acropolis and North Group
In the southern part of the Group of Crosses is this group of structures, in which many of them are still being excavated. Although by location it might be more logical to visit it before the previous group, if your visit to the archaeological site is in the morning, because of times when people access, we believe it is better that this is the third group of the visit.
Trails of the archaeological site of Palenque
Acropolis South Group
Temple XVII
In this temple, the most remarkable is the impressive Pakal carving that we can find in the upper part, from which you can see its original in the Site Museum.
Temple XVII
Temple XIX
In this temple there is also another of Palenque's key pieces, an impressive platform where different hieroglyphs can be seen in which Palenque's history is explained.
Temple XIX
XX Temple
Of this temple, currently under excavation, only its exterior can be seen.
Temple XXI
In Temple XXI, an ornate throne of incredible statues stands out.
North Group Ball game
The highlight in the North Group is the ball game, which has a unique perspective as you approach from the Group of Crosses.
North Group Ball game
What to visit in the archaeological site of Palenque. Northeast Group, Group C, Queen's Bath, Bats Group and Site Museum
This is the last group of structures, on the way to the lower exit you will find and perhaps also the least striking at the "visual" level.
Although in the map that we add below, there is no path that leads from the Ball Game to the Northeast Group, it does exist and can be accessed perfectly from one to another, making a route from the upper to the lower door, without returning to go through any of the structures already visited.
Archaeological Site of Palenque
Northeast Group
Group C
This is the group of structures perhaps less restored in Palenque and in which you can see in a clearer way, as the vegetation has been done with the different structures, making them their own and creating landscapes that seem like another world.
Group C
Queen's Bath
The Queen's Bath is a group of natural ponds, found in the middle of the Otolum stream.
Queen's Bath
Bats Group
After crossing an area where the vegetation seems to cover everything, you reach an area that was used as a residence and that is the Group of Bats, the last group of structures that can be visited in Palenque, next to Groups 1 and 2, before reaching the road that takes you to the Site Museum after traveling a few meters.
Site museum
With a schedule from 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. from Tuesday to Sunday and free access, the visit to the Site Museum we believe is the perfect complement to the visit to the archaeological site of Palenque.
Among the most notable pieces is the exact copy of the Pakal Sorcophagus found in the Temple of the Inscriptions and can not be visited today for its preservation and a reproduction of the funeral mask.
Pakal's sarcophagus
Pakal mask
It's 12:30, that is 4:30 hours after our entrance to the archaeological site of Palenque, when after enjoying a unique visit to the Palenque museum we take a bus right in front of it that for 28 pesos per person takes us back to Palenque, after a unique and incredible visit.
Being the hour that is, we decided to go directly to Café Jade, next to the Hotel Chablis Palenque, where we ordered a pasta dish, a guacamole, cochinita cakes, natural juices and two coffees for 395 pesos that make us feel great, besides being great.
Jade coffee. Palenque
It is 2:30 when we have just eaten and knowing that we have deserved a rest on this trip to Mexico for free, we go to the hotel where we enjoy a nap that charges us with energy, to leave at 5 again, this Once to know Palenque, the magical town.
From La Cañada we are about 700 meters from the Zócalo, where we arrive by one of the town's walkers and where we are practically an hour enjoying its colorful streets and its atmosphere, although we have to say after the experience, that although La Cañada it's kind of theme park in which you will only find hotels, more or less large and the occasional restaurant, the town of Palenque, as such is no excuse to stay longer than the account in Palenque, so if you do not have time to visit it, do not worry Although interesting, we do not believe it is essential.
Palenque
At 7 we are back in La Canada, where we decided to go back to Café Jade for this time, make a snack-dinner with a couple of natural juices and two cakes plus coffee for 260 pesos that serve us to say goodbye to the incredible day of today in the archaeological site of Palenque.
Day 20: Tour to Yaxchilán and Bonampak from Palenque
